It’s more than an hour southwest of Killarney, and roughly 2 hours west of Cork. If that doesn’t help, and you are only very vaguely familiar with Irish geography (go on, admit, it), call it 4.5 hours outside Dublin.
However you locate it, there lies the Beara Peninsula, one of Ireland’s most rugged, remote and beautiful stretches of coastline.
For repeat visitors to Ireland who have drunk in the delights of Dublin a time or two, or for those who prefer the wild outdoors to the pressures of a humming metropolis, this dreamy landscape is well worth the journey. It’s one of the least reached portions of Ireland’s famed Wild Atlantic Way, a scenic tourism trail stretching 1,553 miles from the Inishowen Peninsula in Ulster in the north to Kinsale, County Cork, on the Celtic Sea.
“One memory that stands out for me, after winding through the quiet villages and sweeping hills towards Allihies, was when the Wild Atlantic Way, in all its glory, came into view,” according to Anne-Marie Cleary, owner and operator of Kerry Tour Guides in Kenmare. “The place felt almost untouched, as though it had remained unchanged for centuries.”
Beara (as it’s commonly known) is also a welcome reprieve from the popular Ring of Kerry, Dingle Peninsula and Cliffs of Moher tourist circuits, added Ann Ellard, Ireland tour director at EF Go Ahead Tours.
“The remoteness can be regarded as a blessing,” said Ellard. “Coachload tourism synonymous with other well-known places along the Wild Atlantic way has not reached here.”
What to get there first? Here’s how to dive into this untamed Irish escape.
The route
First, a lay of the land. As Cleary explains, Beara, named after a Spanish princess, is the only peninsula located in two counties, Cork and Kerry. You can drive the 92-mile Ring of Beara route along the peninsula in a half-day, says Ellard, but she recommended stretching your adventures over two to three days.
Start by following the R571 out of Glengarriff, or from Kenmare, suggested Cleary. The best times to visit the Beara marked trails are spring and summer when there are traditional Irish music festivals aplenty.
“A perfect day is to walk the mountain and by night relax in the old bars, listen to the best of Irish music and experience seafood fresh from Kenmare Bay,” she said.
However, flower enthusiasts should target May and early June when the wild rhododendrons bloom. Pack your rain gear regardless of when you go.
Nervous drivers, take note. The two-way roads are narrow, but passable.
“The houses have no neighbors, and I’ve wondered where people get their groceries!” said Ellard.
If you’re an anxious type, consider taking the bus from Kenmare to Castletownbere or hiring a local driver/guide.
Along the way
Marvel at Healy Pass Scenic Drive
The meandering Healy Pass Scenic Drive winds through the rocky Caha Mountains and you should definitely carve out some time at the summit to soak up the vistas. Below you’ll spy the sparkling canvas of Bantry Bay and the Kenmare River.
“The pass provides 360-degree views of the nearby coastline and valleys,” said Duncan Greenfield-Turk, CEO of Global Travel Moments, a private travel agency.
Best of all, you can get there in your preferred mode as the mountain pass can be explored by car, bike or laced into hiking boots.
“The quiet here is almost meditative, with only the occasional sheep crossing your path or the wind,” Cleary said.
But drivers beware: The mountain roads are winding and full of hairpin bends. “It’s hard to keep your eyes on this jaw dropping road as you are in awe at the wild and rugged landscape dotted with sheep that surrounds you,” said Ellard.
Wander through Allihies
On the peninsula’s southwestern tip, in County Cork, is the village of Allihies surrounded by the majestic Slieve Miskish Mountains.
It’s charming and colorful and rich with history. It’s home to historic copper mines, the wild Ballydonegan Beach, one of the tallest Ogham stones in Europe and O’Neill’s Bar & Restaurant.
Regarding the latter, Cleary shared that this family-run spot is renowned for its fresh catch of the day. “You’ll find perfectly grilled fish — perhaps a delicate plaice or tender cod, depending on the season — served with crispy potatoes and seasonal vegetables,” she said. “Pair it with a pint of Guinness or a glass of Irish cider, and you’ve got yourself a quintessential Beara meal.”
Check out stellar stones
The Beara Peninsula has some 500 prehistoric archaeological sites. See perhaps the best of the ancient stone circle bunch in County Kerry.
Set against the backdrop of the dramatic mountains, the 4,000-year-old Uragh Stone Circle in Gleninchaquin Park “feels like stepping into another time,” said Cleary.
Or, rock buffs can swap this stone circle for a 15-minute car ferry from Castletownbere to Bere Island.
“The island is rich in archaeological and historical sites,” added Ellard. “There are ringforts, standing stones, burial mounds and Martello towers.”
Lodging
If you’re limited on time, stay in Kenmare, which allows you complete your visit in Beara Peninsula in a single day. But for a high-end option, check into Park Hotel Kenmare (from $370 per night) or Sheen Falls Lodge (from $260 per night).
For something more affordable, try Kenmare Bay Hotel (from $99 per night).
Have a few days to spare? Ellard’s top picks are The Eccles Hotel (from $170 per night) or Casey’s Hotel Glengarriff (from $162 per night). Both are in Glengarriff, a superb homebase if you’re planning a longer stay.
